Lords and Lemurs

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In the extreme south of Madagascar lies Berenty, a unique place where Tandroy tribesmen, French lords, mad scientists, and various lemur species coexist under a tamarind tree. Alison Jolly, who arrived to study lemurs forty years ago, shares the story of Berenty, its inhabitants, and its wildlife. The estate's owner, Jean de Heaulme, came to Berenty as a baby in 1928, and his family has since played a significant role in Madagascar’s journey toward independence, navigating economic challenges, civil unrest, and imprisonment. Despite their colonial past, the de Heaulmes embody a sense of responsibility towards the local people and ecosystem, having designated a large part of their land as a nature preserve for thriving wildlife. Jean formed a bond with a local Tandroy noble, representing a shift from the Tandroy's historical warrior culture to a modern existence where they can access medical care and education while preserving their customs. Traditional villages remain, and men work to provide for their clans, including the grand funerals for clan elders that feature vibrant celebrations and zebu cattle sacrifices. Jolly's narrative captures the poignant, colorful, and sometimes humorous aspects of life in Berenty, illustrating the enduring human spirit that transcends social systems.