Barbarian Days: A Surging Life

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Surfing transcends mere sport; for enthusiasts, it embodies a beautiful addiction and a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan began surfing as a child and spent years chasing waves across the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, and Africa. A bookish boy turned adventurous young man, he later became a writer and war reporter. His narrative delves into unfamiliar worlds, including the coasts of New York and San Francisco, and captures the edgy camaraderie of male friendships forged in challenging surf. Finnegan recounts experiences in a whites-only gang at a tough Honolulu school, while maintaining a close friendship with a native Hawaiian surfer. He reflects on the social upheavals of the 1960s that affected both kids and adults. His tales include the intricacies of famous waves and his personal journey to master them, blending youthful folly—like dropping LSD while surfing Honolua Bay—with rueful humor. Alongside a friend, he explores Polynesia, discovering one of the world's greatest waves while camping on a deserted island in Fiji. His travels take him deeper into the role of an unlikely anthropologist, examining the dynamics of a Samoan fishing village, the sexual politics in Tonga, and navigating Indonesia's black market while battling malaria. Throughout, he continues to surf.